My Blog
The truth about declawing
If you're thinking about having your cat declawed, there are many things you should know before you make your decision. The surgery is basically an American trend, and is considered inhumane and is illegal in many countries, (England, Scotland, Wales, Italy, France, Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Norway, Sweden, Netherlands, Northern Ireland, Ireland, Denmark, Finland, Slovenia, Portugal, Belgium, Brazil, Australia, New Zealand, Yugoslavia and Japan). If that doesn't impact your opinion about declawing, maybe this website will help you decide: http://community-2.webtv.net/stopdeclaw/declawpics/
I believe that people who have their cats declawed are uneducated. It is not very difficult to train your cat to use a scratching post. The surgery is not simply a trimming of the claws, it’s an amputation of the distal phalanx, including bones, ligaments, and tendons! To remove the claw, the bone, nerve, joint capsule, collateral ligaments, and the extensor and flexor tendons must all be amputated. If you were to make a comparison, it would be like having the last joint of each of our fingers chopped off. So, of course it is a painful surgery, with a painful recovery. There are often many complications in the healing process, including infection often from litter box use, resulting in a life-long aversion to the litter box. Other declawed cats that can no longer mark with their claws, will mark with urine instead, resulting in inappropriate elimination problems.
Many cats who have been declawed are traumatized and become withdrawn, nervous, fearful and/or aggressive. Cats who went through the painful surgery are more prone to resort to biting when they feel threatened. Since cats have emotional feelings, (just like we do) they can resent you if you decided to get them declawed. All of these things can cause depression and ultimately lead to an overweight cat.
If a cat who has been declawed accidentally escapes, he/she would be in great danger. A cat needs it's claws to defend itself, as well as to escape by climbing. The constant state of stress, caused by a feeling of defenselessness may make some declawed cats more prone to disease. Also they cannot stretch their back and shoulder muscles like they do naturally when they dig their claws into a scratching post.
One popular alternative is Soft Paws. They are lightweight vinyl nail caps that you glue on the cat's front claws. They're great for households with small children and are extremely useful for people who are away from home all day and can't exercise the watchfulness necessary to train a cat to use a scratching post. Soft Paws are easy to apply and last about four to six weeks. They come in clear or colors--which are really fun.
Most common types of damage are scratched furniture, ripped carpets and shredded wallpaper. You want to eliminate the problem before it occurs. Buy or build a stable, tall scratching-post, right from the start. Here are some tips to do it right: If your cat is scratching your furniture or rugs, here is some advice on training them to use a scratching post:
• The post should be at least two feet high, covered with sisal-rope
• Get more than one, especially when you have a multi-cat household
• Place the post close to the furniture or other areas which are most at risk
• Introduce a new scratching-post with some catnip sprinkled on its surface. Cats love that and it’s more attractive to them
• If your cat starts scratching the "wrong" object, gently carry your cat to the desired post. Do not yell at your cat. Demonstrate how to use it by scratching the post with your own nails. If the cat doesn‘t catch on after trying this repeatedly for a few days, gently pick up his paws rub them along the post.
• Never force your cat. When it starts scratching the post by itself, make sure you use verbal praise with a rewarding treat and affection. The cat needs to know that using the scratching post results in positive things such as affection, playing and treats.
• When you have a kitten, start early with the "pawing at post" technique
• Invest in what’s called a “cat tree” which acts also as a leisure area for your cat. Different textures and heights make it more interesting, you perhaps want to build it yourself
• Try some repellent like pepper-dust or some commercial products on your furniture to keep your cat off these areas
• Be persistent and don't give up too soon
Use cat claw trimmers and only take off a tiny bit at the end of the nail. Some people say to do it every other week. I think it's safer to cut off less than you are told, and to do it more often, (like once a week). Never use trimmers that are made for humans or dogs, because you are more likely to hurt her that way. Using nail clippers made for human nails can result in bleeding, even if you don't cut too far. You can ask your vet or groomer to show you the proper way to do it. Here's a website that shows you how: http://www.catscratching.com/htmls/article.htm
Sources: http://www.catcatcat.com/behav2.html, http://www.declawing.com/
Indoor/outdoor debate
Cats that live indoors live longer, healthier lives. Statistically, the life span of an indoor cat averages 12 to 14 years, whereas it is only about four years for the outdoor cat. More than one million outdoor cats are killed each year by dogs, traffic, and exposure to disease. In the long run, keeping your cat indoors will also save you money in vet bills. For more information, visit this site: http://www.petplace.com/cats/the-great-debate-indoor-versus-outdoor-cats/page1.aspx
There are many risks that come with letting your cats roam free outside:
- They have a much higher chance of catching diseases and other illnesses such as: Feline Leukemia (FeLV), Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP), Feline Herpes Virus (Rhinotracheitis), Feline Distemper, Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV), rabies, tapeworm, ringworm, heart worm, hypothermia and urinary tract infection
- Ingesting chemicals or poisons such as pesticides, home garden products and car products
- Getting fleas or ticks
- Injury or death due to dangerous traffic
- Eating poisonous spiders, insects or plants
- Injury or death due to cruel humans, hunters or neighbors
- Attacks from dogs, other cats or wild animals
- Other accidental injuries
- Getting lost or stolen
Introducing a kitten to a resident cat
If you haven't brought the kitten into your home yet, when you see him next wipe him or her down with a towel and bring it home with you. Set it very casually on the floor, and let your cat approach it, (don't bring your cat to the towel like you're showing her, let her find it on her own). If you have plenty of time in advance, then leave the towel around for several days, and even bring more towels with the kittens' scent. Place them several places in the house, in the same way you "planted" the first one. It may also be helpful to rub your cat down with a towel also and bring it to the kitten.
When it's time for the kitten to come home for the first time, as you are distracting your resident cat, have a friend, (someone who doesn't live with you) bring the kitten in and place him or her in a room with the door closed. Also ask your friend to get the food and water dishes and the litter box set up in the closed room. Include toys and a bed, (or just a box with towels). The litter box should be in the opposite side of the room from the food, water and bed. DO NOT set up the kittens room before you bring him or her home. This will only confuse your cat. The object is to make your older cat think that the kitten suddenly, (and magically!) appeared, without your knowledge.
Your cat will approach the door and pick up on the scent of the kitten. Don't get discouraged or worried if you hear some hissing and growling, as this is very common. For the first couple days, spend a limited time in the room with the kitten and make sure to give your resident cat plenty of affection, even more than usual.
Another helpful thing to try is to attach two toys with a string, and leave them on opposite sides of the door. This way your cats can play together safely. Make sure that when your cat is near the door and calm that you reward your cat with treats and affection.
Cats are very territorial animals, and this is why you don't want her to see the kitten as an intruder that YOU brought home and shoved in her face. Cats are very much creatures of habit and routine, so when her routine is disrupted, don't be surprised if she becomes very angry. You must be the judge of when they should meet face-to-face, but don't push things too quickly, it may take a few days of sniffing each other under the door before they have settled down.
When you believe they have calmed down and are ready, casually open the door a few inches. Remember, you are being nonchalant about this; do not force them on each other. You should pick a time after both cats have just eaten; feed them a treat that you know they will love, (like some of their favorite cooked meat). They will be content and their bellies will be full, so they're less likely to want to exert a lot of energy in a cat fight. Supervise them and don't be surprised if the older cat swats at or fights with the kitten. Don't step in and separate them unless someone's getting hurt worse than just a scratch on the nose. The kitten will probably retreat into his or her room at which time you should close the door. Increase the time you allow them to interact each day. Don't leave them together unattended until you are confident that they comfortable with each other. Be patient. It may take a few weeks or even a few months, but if all goes well they will soon become the best of friends.
Extra tip: to ease the initial tension of introduction, rub each cat down with brewer's yeast powder. Brewer's yeast is available in natural food stores. It's all natural, full of vitamin B, and will actually go good for the cats to lick it off. The smell of the brewers yeast helps disguise the foreign odors and each cat will basically smell the same. Don't use anything like baby powder because the talc isn't good for the cat to breathe or ingest. You should use the same grooming tools, (combs, brushes, towels, mitts) on both cats to transfer their scents to one another.
Source: Twisted Whiskers by Pam Johnson
Bad food for kitty
Tuna:
Contrary to popular belief, tuna is NOT good for cats. The vegetable oil in tuna contains polysaturated fat, which is too difficult for a cat to metabolize. Tuna is also high in mineral salts that can form bladder stones. It also robs the cat's body of vitamin E. If enough of this vitamin is depleted the cat becomes at risk of developing a painful condition called "steatitis." This condition causes the fat in a cat's body to become hard. The first visual signs include a greasy, dull coat. The lumps of fat begin to develop under the skin. As the condition progresses the cat becomes extremely sensitive to being touched and movement is painful. A cat who becomes a "tuna junkie" will eventually refuse to eat anything else. It's not unusual for tuna-addicted cats to become nervous or aggressive.
Source: Twisted Whiskers by Pam Johnson
Tap water:
It's best to feed your cat either natural spring water or distilled water, because the water from your tap has metals and other contaminates that aren't good for kitty. Stainless steel or glass food and water bowls are the best choices. Cats have an excellent sense of smell, and since their noses are so close to their mouths, they work hand in hand. Often cat's don't like plastic because it makes their food/water smell like plastic, (and they're also harder to keep clean, and bacteria will remain in the bowl). Also, if the bowl is too deep/narrow the cat may refuse to use it because their whiskers are very sensitive and they don't like them touching the side of the bowl.
Source: Twisted Whiskers by Pam Johnson
And of course always leave your toilet seat down. Many cats have been known to like to drink out of the toilet. This is not safe for reasons such as the bacteria as well as any toilet bowl cleaners you may use. Many cleaners contain bleach; which is something that some cats seem to love the smell of.
Cow's milk:
Cats must acquire a taste for dairy products. Although some cats obviously enjoy cow's milk, many cats do not. It's important to remember that cow's milk differs from the milk kittens get from their nursing mother. Cat's milk contains almost three times as much protein as cow's milk. Orphan kittens fed only cow's milk will not survive because they are not getting sufficient protein in their diet. If you find yourself in the position of surrogate cat-mom, make sure you feed the little ones a nutritionally adequate diet. Consult your veterinarian or feed the kittens one of the commercial products designed for this purpose. Cow's milk can occasionally be a problem for cats that do enjoy it. Some adult cats cannot effectively digest cow's milk, (lactose intolerance) which can result in diarrhea. The diarrhea should stop after you remove milk from your cat's diet. But if the diarrhea persists, lactose intolerance may not be the problem, and you should consult your veterinarian.
Here's an example of a good alternative… artificial cat milk that can be bought at a pet store: http://www.terrificpets.com/pet_supplies/cat/health-care/replacement-milk/
Source: http://www.petshealth.com/dr_library/catfood.html
Chocolate:
Just because certain foods, such as chocolate, are enjoyed by us humans and are perfectly safe for us, it does not mean they are suitable for cats. Chocolate contains chemicals which rarely cause problems for humans, but for cats and other domestic pets, these chemicals can, in rare cases, be deadly.
One problem is that cats in general find chocolate very tasty and so, it is important not to feed it to them, otherwise they will eat what you give them up to the point where it poisons them.
Chocolate contains the compound theobromine which is a diuretic as well as a cardiac stimulant. This can cause the pet's heart rate to increase or it may cause the heart to beat irregularly, both of which can be dangerous to the animal. The level of theobromine present in chocolate varies depending on the type of chocolate. For example, dark chocolate contains higher levels than milk chocolate and so could pose a greater risk to your pet.
There are many problems that can result from feeding a cat chocolate. Chocolate is relatively high in calories so it can contribute to the development of obesity in your cat. A cat can lose its appetite for its normal food if it eats chocolate. The largest problem is though the fact that chocolate contains the chemical theobromine as mentioned above. If this chemical builds up in the cats system, it can be potentially lethal, and one reason for this is that cats cannot clear theobromine from their bodies as quickly as people can. Many cat owners would simply expect their pet to develop an upset stomach after eating a large amount of chocolate but few realize its lethal potential.
Further problems which can arise from chocolate poisoning are Diuresis, (increased urine production), diarrhea, lethargy, vomiting, depression, and muscle tremors. These are signs which must be recognized by any cat owner so that the cat is not fed too much chocolate.
Treatment for chocolate poisoning in its advanced stage can be very unpleasant for both the cat and the owner of the cat, so it is much better to be safe and to cut down chocolate consumption of your cat to a minimum. If you do have worries that your cat has consumed large quantities of human chocolate it would be wise to consult your vet - pronto. Spotting the symptoms early on can be very beneficial and can give the cat a much better chance of surviving any poisoning which may have occurred.
If you wish to feed your cat chocolate, there are alternate "chocolate" treats for cats which are produced by some pet food manufacturers. They will either use a vegetable substitute made to taste and look like chocolate, or they will take out the theobromine, or use greatly reduced, safe levels in the chocolate treats they produce. While a very small amount of chocolate may not be harmful to some cats, it is always safest to avoid giving any to them at all.
Source: http://petcaretips.net/cat-chocolate-poisoning.html
Table scraps:
1. Some human foods are toxic to cats, even in small amounts, such as onions or chocolate.
2. Most human food is either too highly spiced, or too fat-laced to be good for cats. Even though the food may smell appealing, tummy aches or vomiting might be the end result.
3. A cat regularly fed human food will either lose his taste for his own food, or be too full to eat it. Either way, he will lose the essential nutrients, including taurine, so necessary for cats to survive and thrive.
4. Allowing cats to eat "at the table" is creating your own home-grown monster. You may find your guests appalled at having a cat at the table, and your cat will be miffed at being banished.
Source: http://cats.about.com/od/catfoodandnutrition/f/tablescraps.htm
Dog food:
There are some who believe that it is all right to feed dog food to cats. There are others who feel that it is all right to feed cat food to dogs. It is time to set the record straight on the nutritional habits of our favorite furry family friends. "Cats are very peculiar in their dietary requirements," says Dr. Allan Paul, small animal Extension veterinarian at the University of Illinois College of Veterinary Medicine at Urbana. "They are not small dogs."
The first major difference between cats and dogs, explains Dr. Paul, is that cats are true carnivores, requiring a diet mainly of meat and meat products. Dogs are omnivores, having the ability to exist on a diet of meat and plant products.
"There are certain nutrients that cats need that can only be found in animal sources," claims Dr. Paul. "Dog foods are higher in grain products and lack some of these essential nutrients."
Taurine is an essential amino acid that is crucial for a cats health and is only found in animal tissues. Without taurine in the diet, cats can experience heart problems, blindness, and respiratory problems. Dr. Paul remarked that the blindness caused by a lack of taurine in the diet was first seen in cats that were fed strictly dog food.
The next nutrient Dr. Paul mentioned was vitamin A. Dogs have the ability to convert beta-kerotene to vitamin A. Cats on the other hand need pre-formed vitamin A in their diet, which can only be found in animal tissues.
Arachidonic acid, a necessary fatty acid, can be synthesized by a dog using linoleic acid. The cat is unable to do this and needs to ingest arachidonic acid in their diet. This, too, can only be found in animal tissues.
Finally, Dr. Paul stated that cats have a much higher protein requirement than dogs because they use protein as an energy source. "Because of all of these differences, you should not feed dog food to your cat," states Dr. Paul. "Because cat food is not formulated for dogs, you should not feed cat food to your dog. If you would like further information on this topic, contact your local veterinarian.
Source: http://www.cvm.uiuc.edu/petcolumns/showarticle.cfm?id=189
Litter training a kitten
If the kitten stays with its Mom long enough, (an absolute minimum of 8 weeks and preferably 12 weeks) it should be very simple. Kittens taken from their mothers too soon often develop nursing behavior on themselves, other cats, humans, or fabric, and these habits will often continue throughout adulthood. They also need this time to learn proper cat behavior from their mother cat, including use of the litter box, socializing with humans and other cats. Try to imagine how a human would have turned out if he or she were taken away from their parents as toddlers, and didn't have the proper role model to learn from. So, usually when a kitten has been observing their mother using the litter box, they will usually copy her which also helps the other kittens learn.
After the kitten has left his mother and he comes home with you for the first time, feed him wet food, (which is what's best for him especially before he's a year old). About thirty minutes after he‘s done eating, place him in the box. If putting him in the box doesn‘t prompt him to use it, then stir the litter with your hands while he’s watching. Never restrain him in the box; you should always let the kitten jump out if he wants to.
Kittens will often have accidents, and the best thing to do is to pick up the feces and put it in the litter box. This will help him understand that the litter box belongs to him and that is where he should go. If you see him sniffing around or looking like he needs to go, then immediately put him in the box. Also one of the most important tips to prevent him from going in the same spot is to thoroughly clean it. I added stain and odor removing tips below. Never yell at or scold the kitten for accidents, as you wouldn't scold a potty training toddler for an accident. Punishment does not help a cat's behavior. All it does is make your cat fear and resent you.
Each day about a half an hour after mealtime and playtime, put him in the box as you did the first time. Cats are creatures of habit, so teach them the routine and you should have no problem.
Odor removing tips:
Remember, a cat's sense of smell is fourteen times stronger than that of a human. This is why it is so important for you to thoroughly clean the urine spots. Even if you can’t smell it, your cat probably still smells the urine in the carpet, and this can make them want to “re-mark” that spot over and over.
To remove the smell of urine from just about anything, first clean it with some sort of soap or kitchen cleaner. Then clean it with lemon juice. If you don't like the smell of lemon juice follow it up with a little bit of vanilla extract. One of the most effective formulas I've found for removing ANY odor was from Popular Science Magazine. Mix 1 quart of Hydrogen Peroxide, with 1/4 cup of Baking Soda, and one tablespoon of liquid dishwashing soap. Saturate the affected area, rinse thoroughly with clean water, and the smell is gone. This is non-toxic and safe for your animals and children, and those with allergies. This is especially helpful for removing skunk odor from your outdoor animals. As always, test a small portion of fabric for color fastness, before treating a large area.
What Won’t Work… There are many home remedies for treating pet stains and odors, and let me stress that most of them are not too bad as far as removing odors for humans’ noses. Vinegar, ammonia, baking soda, laundry detergents, lemon juice, fabric softeners, and commercial strength pet stain removers are all great for removing the odors that humans can smell. However; you will need more to remove the odor for your cat's nose. An enzymatic cleaner is the best answer, but it is slow and may take more than one application, (Nature’s Miracle is one of them). The Hydrogen Peroxide/Baking Soda combo is fast, but can alter the colors of some fabrics. In the end, you must decide which application is best for your situation.
Even if you clean a pet stain with soap and water certain micro-organisms remain behind and your pet can smell them. Enzymatic Cleaners are designed to completely eliminate the source of the odor by using enzymes to eat away the micro-organisms that cause the odor. The one drawback to these cleaners is that they are slow; it could take several weeks for them to completely eliminate an odor. Enzymantic Cleaners are available at most pet stores, organic/natural/health food stores, and even some hardware stores. You can also ask your vet for suppliers.
**Never steam clean a stain. That will only make the stain worse**
Sources: http://cat.lifetips.com/faq/20121/0/what-is-a-home-formula-for-removing-pet-odors/index.html, http://cat.lifetips.com/faq/4197/0/what-is-the-best-way-to-remove-a-pet-odor/index.html, http://cat.lifetips.com/faq/20119/0/what-can-i-use-to-help-remove-urine-smells/index.html
Litter box problems
There are so many possible reasons for a cat to stop using the litter box that it's hard to cover them all. The first thing you need to rule out is a medical problem, such as urinary tract infection, urinary blockage or constipation. You will need to take kitty to the vet to get checked out. Has the litter box been cleaned properly? Have you moved it to a different location? Have you recently changed anything such as brand of litter, litter box or food? Have you used any new disinfectants in the box? Has someone new come into your house that s/he didn't seem to like? Any new pets? Even new carpets or furniture can cause this.
Most commonly, cats will refuse to use the litter box because it's not clean enough for them. To prevent this, always scoop litter boxes at LEAST once a day, and change the litter at least once a week. When cleaning the box, use a mild detergent and finish by rinsing very thoroughly. Never use strong-smelling pine cleansers or ammonia. If you want to disinfect the box with bleach, dilute it with water first. Rinsing the box with boiling water is also effective. With covered litter boxes, the smell can be worse, especially with high humidity, so you must be willing to clean it more.
Here are some suggestions for litter box problems:
- Provide a box for each cat
- Provide constant access to a box
- Go back to previously used brand of litter and/or
- Discontinue new disinfectant
- Move box to where it was previously used
- Eliminate new or frightening noise near litter box
- Move food and water away from litter box
- If cat is only going in one spot, put the litter box at the exact location and gradually move it back to where you want it at the rate of one foot per day
- If there are several places, try putting dishes of cat food in those areas to discourage further elimination there
- Experiment with different textures of litter, (cats prefer sandy litter)
- Use a covered litter box for cats that stand in box but eliminate outside of it
- Keep in mind that some cats are rather picky, and prefer to have two separate boxes, (one to pee in and one to poop in)
Problems arise when your cat doesn't like or develops an aversion to the litter box that you have provided. There is absolutely no reason to expect every cat to like the same material, or even for one cat to prefer the same material over an entire life span. If your cat is having litter box problems then you will need to figure out how to make the litter box appealing to the cat. Here are a few options:
1) Pain or illness can cause a cat to stop using the litter box. Cats are very adept at hiding illness, so if your cat is having litter box problems then the first thing you need to do is take the cat to a vet for a medical exam.
2) If you aren't scooping the waste out of the litter every day then you need to start and start now.
3) Perfumes or other odors can drive your cat away from the litter box. Scented litters are unacceptable to many cats, and the leftover scent from a cleaning product could also be a problem. Get rid of the perfumes, and scrub those cleaners away before giving the box back to the cat. Remember that cats have an acute sense of smell.
4) Your cat may feel vulnerable when in the litter box. Is it in a noisy location, (such as next to the washing machine). Is it secure from little marauders like dogs and children, or even other cats? If the box is not semi-private, move it to a better location.
5) Remember those preferences that we talked about earlier. You may need to offer several different types of litter before finding the right one. Strange but true, some cats will not use the same box for urine and feces, in which case you'll have to provide two boxes. The type of box could also be a problem. If the box has a cover, try removing it.
6) Anxiety can lead to litter box lapses. Did some event scare your cat? This could be anything from a new couch to a new cat or even a new person in the house. If you suspect anxiety, confine the cat to a safe and secure place, (maybe a bedroom) until the anxiety has passed. Cats seem to hang on to their emotions, so the anxiety could last much longer than the actual event. No need to rush, leave that safe haven available to the cat for as long as possible.
7) If you have multiple cats, chances are you'll need multiple boxes, maybe even with different materials in them.
There is one more important distinction that you'll need to make. Is the cat refusing to use the litter box, or is the cat spraying? Spraying is a territorial behavior and has nothing to do with disliking the box. For more information on litter box problems or spraying, consult with a trained behaviorist.
Correcting the Problem
The key to solving elimination problems is to make the litter box more attractive, and the area where the cat is soiling instead, unattractive. Sometimes, just cleaning the litter box more frequently or changing its location will correct the problem. Other times, you may need to experiment with different combinations of location and kitty litter to find a solution. You may even want to offer your cat the choice of several different boxes, each with different kinds of litter, to see which he or she prefers. At the same time, you must break the cat's habit of soiling in the new location. Be sure to clean the soiled area thoroughly with a pet odor remover to get rid of any urine scent -- or your cat may be attracted back to the same spot. It's important to keep the cat away from the area. Try covering the spot with carpet runner, prickly side up, or use a device that delivers a harmless static shock or that produces a loud noise when the cat comes near, to help redirect kitty to his litter box. Adding a room deodorizer with a scent the cat finds offensive -- such as a strong citrus or floral -- can also keep the cat away from the area.
When to See the Vet
If your cat continues to eliminate outside of the litter box, a trip to the vet is in order to check for health problems. No behavior techniques will help a cat with a problem that requires the attention of a veterinarian.
Urinary tract infections are a common cause of litter box problems, which your pet's doctor can diagnose and treat. A urinalysis can also rule out diabetes. Other conditions that may affect elimination behavior include arthritis - which makes is painful to climb in and out of the box - and constipation.
Source: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/litterbox
Odor removing tips:
Remember, a cat's sense of smell is fourteen times stronger than that of a human. This is why it is so important for you to thoroughly clean the urine spots. Even if you can’t smell it, your cat probably still smells the urine in the carpet, and this can make them want to “re-mark” that spot over and over.
To remove the smell of urine from just about anything, first clean it with some sort of soap or kitchen cleaner. Then clean it with lemon juice. If you don’t like the smell of lemon juice follow it up with a little bit of vanilla extract. One of the most effective formulas I've found for removing ANY odor was from Popular Science Magazine. Mix 1 quart of Hydrogen Peroxide, with 1/4 cup of Baking Soda, and one tablespoon of liquid dishwashing soap. Saturate the affected area, rinse thoroughly with clean water, and the smell is gone. This is non-toxic and safe for your animals and children, and those with allergies. This is especially helpful for removing skunk odor from your outdoor animals. As always, test a small portion of fabric for color fastness, before treating a large area.
What Won’t Work… There are many home remedies for treating pet stains and odors, and let me stress that most of them are not too bad as far as removing odors for humans' noses. Vinegar, ammonia, baking soda, laundry detergents, lemon juice, fabric softeners, and commercial strength pet stain removers are all great for removing the odors that humans can smell. However, you will need more to remove the odor for your cat’s nose. An enzymatic cleaner is the best answer, but it is slow and may take more than one application, (Nature’s Miracle is one of them). The Hydrogen Peroxide/Baking Soda combo is fast, but can alter the colors of some fabrics. In the end, you must decide which application is best for your situation.
Even if you clean a pet stain with soap and water certain micro-organisms remain behind and your pet can smell them. Enzymatic Cleaners are designed to completely eliminate the source of the odor by using enzymes to eat away the micro-organisms that cause the odor. The one drawback to these cleaners is that they are slow; it could take several weeks for them to completely eliminate an odor. Enzymantic Cleaners are available at most pet stores, organic/natural/health food stores, and even some hardware stores. You can also ask your vet for suppliers.
**Never steam clean a stain. That will only make the stain worse!**
Sources: http://cat.lifetips.com/faq/20121/0/what-is-a-home-formula-for-removing-pet-odors/index.html, http://cat.lifetips.com/faq/4197/0/what-is-the-best-way-to-remove-a-pet-odor/index.html, http://cat.lifetips.com/faq/20119/0/what-can-i-use-to-help-remove-urine-smells/index.html
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