I have a female that used to do the same thing.  The situation did dramatically improve after she was spayed.  But unfortunately sometimes bad habits are hard to break.  She doesn't do it quite like she used to now, but she does occassionally choose the carpet right next to the litter box, so I put puppy training pads under the litter boxes.  Sometimes she still chooses the carpet next to the pads, but for the most part, as long as I make her litter box appealing (ie, keep it clean) she doesn't do too bad anymore.  She's also real picky about the brand of litter I use.  It HAS to be Tidy Cats scoopable, or she just won't use it.  But like Luna said, rule out UTI first, and get her spayed.  If it's not a physical problem, address it as a behavioral problem.  Make her litter box super appealing (covered is good, but make sure she has a clear view out), and make everything else UNappealing, if she has a specific area she uses over and over, you can cover it with aluminum foil, or somehow make her not want to go in that area (and of course clean it).  If cats can smell urine, they might think they can go there, and their noses are way more sensitive than ours- when the smell starts to fade, they think they need to refresh it and they'll do it again.  If she's doing it in multiple rooms, you can consider shutting her in one room with the litter box, so the most appealing place she can find is the litter box.  Once she realizes this is the thing to do, she can start having freedom to roam about the house again.  But she needs to be comfortable with her box first.  Never try to force her into the box after an accident- she knows she's in trouble and she'll recognize being put in the box as punishment.  If this is your only cat, have at least 2 litter boxes available for her also.  They often don't like to #1 in the same place as they #2.  If there's more than one cat, have even more boxes available, because sometimes they also don't like to share.  Basically she needs to feel comfortable in her litter box, if she's ever had any sort of trauma or reason to be afraid of it, that can also contribute- things like another cat aggravating her while she's going. 

Sorry to go on so long- since I had the problem, I've done lots of reading... there's some good info on the internet about re-training your cat to use the litter box the right way.  The most common reason for people to give up their cats is this type of issue, but it CAN be fixed, it'll just take some time and patience!  Good luck.

My cat had a problem with that too.  I was late getting her spayed, so I think that may have been the start of her problem.  But I believe it mostly was a behavioral problem.  She is a sensitive one, and had some troubled begingings, like staying at my parents for a while while I was moving, and having to live with a older mean cat that always harassed her.  But once I got her home and she kept peeing I was ready to give up too. To skip to the end, she's better now.  So here's some of the things I did, and maybe they will help you. 

1. For a while I cleaned her litter at least every other day.  It needs to be clean for her to use it. (Even now I let it slip for like 4 days and she peed once on my bathmat. I cleaned it, and she hasn't peed outside her box again.) It also might help to play around with a few different types of litter, becuase if she doesn't like it she won't use her box.

2. You need to get rid of the smell of her common pee spots.  A great product to use is called Nature's Miracle.  It's a little pricier, but works great. You should be able to find it at any pet supply store.

3. I have a second cat, so for a while too I put out a second litter box, so in theory she could have her own box to pee in. It may be inconvienent for a little while, but if it means you get to keep your cat, it's worth it. If there's somewhere she pees a lot put the second box there, so she learns to pee in a box and not on the floor.

4. Me and my boyfriend were never mean to her, but like I said she was sensitive.  So we put in the extra effort to not tease her, startle her, or upset her too much (like she doesn't like being held too long so we limit our picking her up).  And she loves to play so we set aside more time to play with her everyday.  Also, if it is because she's stresses and still adjusting to a new life, it's better to keep the home quiet and calm.  We did that by limiting the number of people that were here at any given time so she wouldn't freak out.

5. Take away temptations from her, so if she likes the bathmat like mine, try to pick it up, or if she pees on the bed (mine's done that before too), make sure the bed is made and you can even put a plastic cover over it so she doesn't want to be on it when you're gone.

6. Last, as much as you want to be upset never punish or get mad at her. Cats don't understand what they did wrong. I tried getting mad, and I'd keep her in the bathroom when she peed, but that just made her more upset (which is why she'd pee outside her box) , so getting mad never works. Just show lots and lots of love.

So now, not only is she not peeing all over anymore, she is much more affectionate towards me and my boyfriend. She wants to be around us more and will cuddle up more.  It took about 2 months, and can get tiring and unconvenient, but for me it was worth all the effort.

MeoWonderful advice, Figgs!

Here are a few suggestions to your litter box problems:

- Provide a box for each cat

- Change litter daily

- Provide constant access to a box

- Go back to previously used brand of litter and/or

- Discontinue new disinfectant

- Move box to where it was previously used

- Eliminate new or frightening noise near litter box

- Move food and water away from litter box

- If cat is only going in one spot, put the litter box at the exact location and gradually move it back to where you want it at the rate of one foot per day

- If there are several places, try putting dishes of cat food in those areas to discourage further elimination there

- Experiment with different textures of litter (cats prefer sandy litter)

- Use a covered litter box for cats that stand in box but eliminate outside of it

- Keep in mind that some cats are rather picky, and prefer to have two separate boxes (one to pee in and one to poop in)

Anyone who has ever had the displeasure of litter box lapses in their home has probably asked the question "WHY!". "Why would my cat do such a disgusting thing in my home!" For the beginnings of an answer to this question, let's go back to how we train our cats to use the litter box.

Think about it, how did you train your cat to use a litter box? If you are like most people, you probably put the cat in or near the litter box a few times and then counted on the cat's good sense to use the box later. Amazingly enough this method often works (try THAT with a dog), and the reason it works is because what we are counting on is not the cat's good sense but rather the cat's preference for a particular litter box material. Problems arise when your cat doesn't like or develops an aversion to the litter box that you have provided. Let's be fair here. There is absolutely no reason to expect every cat to like the same material, or even for one cat to prefer the same material over an entire life span.

Ok, first lesson learned: You did not train your cat to use a litter box. At best, you offered the cat something recognizable as litter material. If your cat is having litter box problems then you will need to figure out how to make the litter box appealing to the cat. Here are a few options:

1) Pain or illness can cause a cat to stop using the litter box. Cats are very adept at hiding illness, so if your cat is having litter box problems then the first thing you need to do is take the cat to a vet for a medical exam.

2) If you aren't scooping the waste out of the litter every day then you need to start and start now.

3) Perfumes or other odors can drive your cat away from the litter box. Scented litters are unacceptable to many cats, and the leftover scent from a cleaning product could also be a problem. Get rid of the perfumes, and scrub those cleaners away before giving the box back to the cat. Remember that cats have an acute sense of smell.

4) Your cat may feel vulnerable when in the litter box. Is it in a noisy location (such as next to the washing machine)? Is it secure from little marauders like dogs and children, or even other cats? If the box is not semi-private, move it to a better location.

5) Remember those preferences that we talked about earlier. You may need to offer several different types of litter before finding the right one. Strange but true, some cats will not use the same box for urine and feces, in which case you'll have to provide two boxes. The type of box could also be a problem. If the box has a cover, try removing it.

6) Anxiety can lead to litter box lapses. Did some event scare your cat? This could be anything from a new couch to a new cat or even a new person in the house. If you suspect anxiety, confine the cat to a safe and secure place (maybe a bed room) until the anxiety has passed. Cats seem to hang on to their emotions, so the anxiety could last much longer than the actual event. No need to rush, leave that safe haven available to the cat for as long as possible.

7) If you have multiple cats, chances are you'll need multiple boxes, maybe even with different materials in them.

There is one more important distinction that you'll need to make. Is the cat refusing to use the litter box, or is the cat spraying? Spraying is a territorial behavior and has nothing to do with disliking the box. For more information on litter box problems or spraying, consult with a trained behaviorist.

Correcting the Problem

The key to solving elimination problems is to make the litter box more attractive, and the area where the cat is soiling instead, unattractive.

Sometimes, just cleaning the litter box more frequently or changing its location will correct the problem. Other times, you may need to experiment with different combinations of location and kitty litter to find a solution. You may even want to offer your cat the choice of several different boxes, each with different kinds of litter, to see which he or she prefers.

At the same time, you must break the cat's habit of soiling in the new location. Be sure to clean the soiled area thoroughly with a pet odor remover to get rid of any urine scent -- or your cat may be attracted back to the same spot.

It's important to keep the cat away from the area. Try covering the spot with carpet runner, prickly side up, or use a device that delivers a harmless static shock or that produces a loud noise when the cat comes near, to help redirect kitty to his litter box. Adding a room deodorizer with a scent the cat finds offensive - such as a strong citrus or floral - can also keep the cat away from the area.

When to See the Vet

If your cat continues to eliminate outside of the litter box, a trip to the vet is in order to check for health problems. No behavior techniques will help a cat with a problem that requires the attention of a veterinarian.

Urinary tract infections are a common cause of litter box problems, which your pet's doctor can diagnose and treat. A urinalysis can also rule out diabetes. Other conditions that may affect elimination behavior include arthritis - which makes is painful to climb in and out of the box - and constipation.

Odor removing tips:

To remove the smell of urine from just about anything, first clean it with some sort of soap or kitchen cleaner. Then clean it with lemon juice. If you don’t like the smell of lemon juice follow it up with a little bit of vanilla extract. One of the most effective formulas I’ve found for removing ANY odor was from Popular Science Magazine. Mix 1 quart of Hydrogen Peroxide, with 1/4 cup of Baking Soda, and one tablespoon of liquid dishwashing soap. Saturate the affected area, rinse thoroughly with clean water, and the smell is gone. This is non-toxic and safe for your animals and children, and those with allergies. This is especially helpful for removing skunk odor from your outdoor animals. As always, test a small portion of fabric for color fastness, before treating a large area.

What Won’t Work..

There are many home remedies for treating pet stains and odors, and let me stress that most of them are not too bad as far as removing odors for humans’ noses. Vinegar, ammonia, baking soda, laundry detergents, lemon juice, fabric softeners, and commercial strength pet stain removers are all great for removing the odors that humans can smell. HOWEVER; you will need more to remove the odor for your cat’s nose. An enzymatic cleaner is the best answer, but it is slow and may take more than one application. (Nature’s Miracle is one of them.) The Hydrogen Peroxide/Baking Soda combo is fast, but can alter the colors of some fabrics. In the end, you must decide which application is best for your situation.

Even if you clean a pet stain with soap and water certain micro-organisms remain behind and your pet can smell them. Enzymatic Cleaners are designed to completely eliminate the source of the odor by using enzymes to eat away the micro-organisms that cause the odor. The one drawback to these cleaners is that they are slow; it could take several weeks for them to completely eliminate an odor. Enzymantic Cleaners are available at most pet stores, organic/natural/health food stores, and even some hardware stores. You can also ask your vet for suppliers.

i need advice my cat. her name is princess. she is 2 years old and i love her. she have a bad habit. she pees on the bed when i am not home. its like she is depressed. what can i do to get her to stop that habit of hers.

Princess, there are several good suggestions above.  One thing I might add is the use of puppy training pads, or even better, the ones made for humans.  Someone (above) suggested covering the bed with plastic, this idea is kind of along the same lines... but these have plastic bottoms and absorbent tops.  I've found that the ones made for humans are bigger and more absorbent, less likely to leak.  Might be something you could try until you can address whatever is causing the issue.  The cause of the problem can also be explored through postings above.  Good luck! 

My girl started spraying when she was just a few months old. Her place of choice is on top of our bed. We figured out she only did it when she was upset. For instance, we had company over and she peed on the bed. When she and her brother were small, we would bring them in the bedroom with us and close the door so they would not get into mischeif while we were asleep. One night she didn't want to come to bed so she peed on the bed while we were in it! ugh

I  bought the pad that they sell to put under the sheets on  your bed for kids that wet the bed and sewed some together. i put the layer right under our bedspread so if she sprayed it only got the top layer - which for now is an older quilted bedspread I throw in the wash. She is almost 3 years old now, and she only seems to do this once or twice a year now when something happens.

I also bought some spray from petsmart  "No Mark" spray. I would spray it all over the bed after I changed the bedspread.  The spray is suppose to have a pheromone in it that is suppose to help calm the cat and make it not want to spray.  You can also buy the feliway plugs to plug in the wall with a similar effect. They are a little expensive. I used them for a few months after our 3rd cat came into our home, because my girl was freaking out.

we have 2 cats and they have a habit of peeing wherever they can, one pees on dirty laundry when its getting ready to be washed, and the other goes behind the tv in the living room, and on the floor next to her litter tray, i cant understand why!! their trays are always clean and yet they wont use it to wee in, i haven't had them spayed and was wondering if that was the problem!! its getting more worrying as our baby is due to be born next month and its not exactly the most hygeinic enviroment for a baby if the cats are peeing everywhere and dont know how to stop them, i really dont want to get rid of them but i am afraid i might not have much choice.

You should get them spayed. Whole cats both female and male spray. They may still do it after they are spayed, but it could also stop it or slow it way down.